I am constantly amazed at the wealth and deep history connected with the Guiccardini Corsi Salviati family. In addition to the very grand and lavish "palazzo" we live in full-time at the heart of Florence's historical district, and the truly beautiful country villa in Maremma/Aquisti, this affluent and influential Florentine family also has another "rural" villa called "Villa a Sesto". I say "rural" with the explanation that at one point this villa was considered a retreat from the hustling, dirty, and often throughout history, plague ridden fortified city of Firenze. "A Sesto" literally means "a sixth" to geographically explain that the area surrounding it is approximately six kilometers from the nearest gate of Florence. With modern expansion and urban growth exploding far beyond the Medieval city walls, Villa A Sesto is no longer surrounded by rural pasturelands nor is it pastoral in appearance. The villa itself is enclosed within 8-10 foot high stone walls that help to block the modern sounds of cars and busses, and restricts the view of more modern structures like gas stations and hotels. Within these bastions a quiet and peaceful garden is still lovingly tended and labyrinths of neatly pruned hedges still invite you to wonder aimlessly for hours. The villa is now home to the University of Michigan and houses their students who wish to study art, history, and language. I am amazed at the expansive grounds that surround the even more unbelievable complex of buildings. We have antique lithograph drawings of this villa hanging throughout the palazzo and the villa seems to be the true pride of this aristocratic family. I have studied some about it while lounging in the living room as it appears in every major garden and villa book the family has collected as coffee table decoration.
I however would have a very unique first encounter with this place and would see it first in much a different way. I was told that we would be visiting the villa on a Saturday morning and that Giova wanted to take little bird traps to set as we toured the gardens. Of course I immediately, and with great joy agreed to go, not knowing that yet again, in true Italian style, some very important decision changing information was quite ambiguously missing. I discovered later that we would have to wake up around 5:30 or 6:00 in the morning so that we could set the traps in the dark as well as the freezing cold. I was still so excited about seeing this much written about Renaissance villa that I went along just remembering that I have woken up much earlier for duck hunting with the promise of much less in the way of entertainment. When we arrived we found the elderly grounds keeper and his lovely wife already up and prepared to graciously welcome us in. Luca chatted for a moment and at the begging of Giova we left to set around 18 small bird traps scattered throughout the "Bosque" or man-made forest setting to the south of the gardens. As the sun began to rise and my hands, ears, and feet began to thaw the gardens awakened with the sounds of birds, and the rushing of water heard in the distance. We would leave the traps to sit for a while and would wondered the gardens and I would become even more enamored with its beauty with each step. We left the now bobby-trapped forest setting to go and wonder through the more formal rose gardens and along the alleys of changing fall trees covered in bright orange and yellow foliage. The villa came into view as well, and was amazingly beautiful with the newly risen sun dappling it with spots of warmth. Statues and fountains scattered along numerous paths were a sight to behold as I felt amazed and lucky to not only be in Italy, but to experience this very grand garden that epitomized the stories and lectures I had so boringly sat through while studying Landscape Architecture back at Georgia. I was reminded of why I love the outdoors and nature by the very presence of a sunrise, and also why I love garden design by the most beautiful splendor seen here at the villa. After an hour or so of running and playing with Giova through mazes, over bridges, and past statues and after taking numerous photos, it was time to find our catch and head home. In all we caught 4 or 5 birds that day which Luca and Giova would enjoy for dinner that night. I myself am not so impressed with the tiny little scraps of meat that cling onto the bones of a bird no bigger than a sparrow, so I will let them enjoy that all to themselves. Luca promised that we would return in the spring to tour the house itself and to see the blooming of flowers that I am positive will prove to be gorgeous.
You have such an amazing talent for writing, and such a beautiful way with words! Love hearing about your adventures, as always. :)
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